A woman in a terracotta blazer and white turtleneck wearing a wrist watch on a city street

Choose a women's watch by your wrist first and your wardrobe second. Measure your wrist, then look for a case size that sits within its width, a shape that suits the way you dress, a dial you can read at a glance and a strap you will be happy to wear every day. There are no fixed rules: the right watch is the one that looks settled on your wrist and fits the life you lead.

How Do You Measure Your Wrist?

Wrap a soft tape measure, or a strip of paper you can mark and lay flat against a ruler, around your wrist just above the wrist bone, where a watch naturally sits. Keep it snug but not tight, and note the measurement. Then look at the top of your wrist and notice how wide it is from edge to edge, because that flat surface is where the case will rest.

This tells you two things. The circumference guides the strap or bracelet length you need. The width tells you how much room the case has before it begins to overhang.

What Case Size Suits Your Wrist?

Case size is the diameter of the watch, measured in millimetres across the case. As a loose guide, cases of around 26 to 30 mm read as delicate and close to jewellery. Cases of 34 to 38 mm are the size many women wear every day, clear to read without being large. From 40 mm upwards a watch makes a deliberate, sporty statement.

How a size reads depends on your wrist. On a slender wrist a 28 mm watch looks balanced and a 38 mm case looks bold. On a larger wrist a 26 mm case can look very fine, while 36 to 38 mm looks quietly in proportion. Two other measurements matter as much as the diameter. The lugs, the arms that hold the strap, should end before the edges of your wrist. And a slimmer case slides more easily under a cuff.

These four sit at the smaller, dress end of the scale. Frederique Constant's Stainless Steel Classic measures 30 x 27 mm, with a beaded bezel, Roman numerals and a stainless steel bracelet. Rosefield's Stainless Steel Dress Watch is 26 mm, with a mother-of-pearl dial left free of numerals on a mesh strap. Bulova's Classic Dress Watch sets a blue dial, Roman numerals and a date window in a 29 mm case. Philip Watch's Stainless Steel Classic is 28 mm, in silver and rose gold tones, with a Swiss made movement.

Round, Rectangular or Square?

A round case is the most familiar shape, and the easiest to wear with everything. A rectangular or square case has a more architectural line and tends to look dressier, closer to a piece of jewellery than an instrument. Because a rectangle runs along the wrist rather than across it, a rectangular watch can often wear smaller than its measurement suggests.

Armani Exchange's Gold-tone Rectangular Watch is 27 mm, with a gold-tone case and linked bracelet around a silver-tone dial without numerals. Fossil's Silver-Tone Rectangular Dress Watch is a 26 mm stainless steel rectangle with crystal detailing, Roman numerals and a date display. Tommy Hilfiger's Rose Gold Dress Watch is the smallest here at 21 mm: a square dial with a crystal-studded bezel, in rose gold-tone metal on a mesh bracelet.

Reading the Dial

A watch is there to be read, so look at the dial as closely as the case. Full numerals, or bold markers with hands in a contrasting colour, are the quickest to read. Roman numerals add a traditional, formal note. A dial with no numerals at all is the cleanest look and suits a dress watch, though it asks for a slightly longer glance. Mother-of-pearl and crystal-set dials catch the light beautifully; choose them for character rather than for the quickest reading.

Bracelet, Leather or Mesh?

The strap changes the character of a watch as much as the case does. A metal bracelet looks polished and suits both tailoring and evenings. Leather is softer and warmer, and its colour can be chosen to match the rest of what you wear. Mesh, a fine woven metal, sits close and flat on the wrist and is often adjustable, a quiet middle ground between the two.

Metal tones are worth describing carefully. Stainless steel gives a cool silver colour. Gold-tone and rose gold-tone finishes are a colour applied over metal, not solid gold; IP, short for ion plating, is one way of bonding that colour to steel. Two-tone watches combine silver with gold or rose gold tones, which makes them easy to wear alongside jewellery in either colour.

Mondaine's Stainless Steel Wristwatch is 38 mm, in grey and silver tones on a stitched leather strap, with a Swiss quartz movement. Armani Exchange's Rose Gold Mesh Watch pairs a 36 mm stainless steel case in a rose gold finish with a fine mesh strap. Guess's Gold Leather Dress Watch has a 38 mm IP gold stainless steel case, a beige dial and crystals on the dial and lugs. Maurice Lacroix's Stainless Steel Dress Watch is 34 mm on a stainless steel bracelet, with a light-blue dial, crystal accents and an automatic movement; our guide to watch movements explains how an automatic winds itself as you wear it.

Dress, Everyday or Sport?

A dress watch is small, slim and quiet, made for evenings and occasions. An everyday watch sits in the middle: a size you can read easily, on a bracelet or strap that copes with a working week. A sport watch is larger and more practical, often with a rotating bezel for timing, luminous hands for low light, or a chronograph, which is a built-in stopwatch.

If you like a bold, sporty watch, a large diver is worth considering, and these two are unisex pieces. Citizen's Automatic Diver's Watch is 41 mm in stainless steel on a rubber strap, with a rotating bezel, luminous hands and markers, and day and date. Citizen's Quartz Divers 200M is larger still at 50.7 mm, with a blue dial, an analogue-digital display and a metal link bracelet. Both carry a 200-metre rating; what that allows in practice is set by the maker, and our guide to water resistance explains how to read it. Fossil's Stainless Steel Chronograph Watch is a lighter take on sport at 37 mm, with chronograph subdials, a tachymeter scale and a crystal-accented bezel.

One Watch or a Small Wardrobe?

If you would like one watch to do everything, choose an everyday size of around 34 to 36 mm on a stainless steel bracelet, with a dial you can read easily. It will sit with tailoring, knitwear and evening clothes alike.

If you enjoy changing your watch as you change your clothes, a small wardrobe of two or three works well: a slim dress watch on a fine bracelet or mesh, an everyday watch on leather, and a sport watch for weekends and travel.

If you are choosing your first good watch, we would start with your wrist measurement and one everyday watch you can read at a glance.